Buenos Aires (again) et le grand Mont Royal

This is my final blog post! I am landing at Heathrow on Wednesday, and very much looking forward to going home. However, I will miss traveling very much. It's been an amazing 5 months and I feel really lucky to have been able to see all that I've seen (both landscapes and cityscapes) and to have met hilarious lunatics, awe-inspiring hard workers, generous strangers and rude portenos. Nothing beats people and places.

In my last two weeks traveling I have spent a lazy week in Buenos Aires and a very cultured week in Montreal.

After saying goodbye to Sarah, I got back to Buenos Aires feeling utterly exhausted. I slept for roughly two days and earned myself the reputation of always being asleep among the other travelers. But later on during the week I was able to relive my favourite aspects of Buenos Aires and see some new areas of the city, too. I went with some friends to La Cabrera steak house. At this famous restaurant, you are presented with a 600g steak and lots of little pots of various veggies to try it with, such as artichoke hearts, peppers and spinach salsa...it was the best meal of my trip. I also went to a 50s Rock dance class which was lots of fun and, of course, there was more Tango. On my last day we stumbled across a Colombian street festival and were treated to some traditional dance shows and music (enthusiastically commentated by our Colombian friend from the hostal). I also had a healthy dose of Buenos Aires night life; a hip hop club, a house club, chic bars in the leafy Palermo neighborhood and grimy local joints. I also made use of the extensive film collection at the hostal and discovered at the beginning of the week the last book in the Dragon Tattoo series. I had not read the first two (recently watched the first film), but was immediately hooked by it and couldn't put it down until I had finished. A couple of girls there had also been at the Krishna farm, and it was so sad saying goodbye to the people that I had spent so much time with. That is one of the hard aspects of traveling; constant heart ache and goodbyes... on the other hand we all have somewhere to stay now in each others' respective countries!

I'm now in Montreal, possibly the world capital of culture, and it's baking hot (29 degrees yesterday and today). There's so much to do here, it's almost overkill. Since being here, I have seen two comedy shows and lazed at the free comedy stage for many hours, visited both contemporary and Inuit art galleries, seen a free open-air production of the Taming of the Shrew, listened to a lunch-time blue grass concert in the local plaza, raved with the group of drummers and cow bell musicians who meet up every Sunday for jamming sessions, and after a Friday night BBQ, gone to a late night House music club with a few locals from the city. Not to mention the awesome history museum, my bike ride around the two islands on the river, the visit to the eden project-esque Biodome in the Olympic park, and the feast we prepared after going shopping at the Saturday farmers market in the north of Montreal. Sigh. 

On another note, it's really nice being in a bilingual city. There seems to be a lot of rivalry about French and English, but everyone speaks both. Signs and announcements are primarily in French but often translated. Apparently, in Quebec they are defend their French heritage a lot fiercer. I like speaking French, but I kind of miss Spanish now! I've been sharing my bunk bead with a guy from BA so we can reminisce about La Cabrera and the San Telmo Sunday market. 

We watched the Olympic opening ceremony, and the coverage is playing on the TV everywhere. If you have any questions about how the Canadian team are doing, just ask. I loved the opening ceremony, it made me feel very patriotic and eager to go home. And see my clothes. And the dogs. And my Mum!!!!

The Girls From Ipanema

Broccoli trees clustered on miniature mountains, mile-long white sand beaches and crashing green waves...Rio turned out to be a little piece of heaven! The people were chilled, the sun was hot and so were the bodies. We made our first outing on a Sunday from Centro Rio, along the beach and all the way to the Sugar Loaf mountain. People were jogging, playing football, volleyball and beach tennis, and drinking refreshing coconut water across the stretch of the coast. Sarah and I stood out like pink flamingos but we carried on chasing the shore line, and just included ourselves in the colourful mixture of people and dogs running about. * It was all about the views: from Cristo and the Sugar loaf, to hand gliding above Leblon beach, Rio could be admired from every angle. The city also seemed to take influence from every angle of the world- the music and art was really colourful and had a lot of influence from Africa (like the drums in Samba), and the bar culture from Europe was ever present (especially the night Sarah and I went on a bar crawl through trendy Leblon sampling Caipirinhas and Bohemia beer). Everyone we met was very relaxed and happy, they seemed to be well aware of the fact that their city was enjoying a bright future, fat economy and winters with temperatures of 27 degrees in the shade. * Sarah and I left this hustle and bustle for a long weekend on Ihla Grande. It was paradise – the beach we hiked to, Lopez Mendez, is often voted as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. With no cars on the island, our only option to get around was– alas! - via speed boat. On our second day we took a trip visiting more inaccesible places, such as the green lagood and the blue lagoon whilst posing and tanning on the bonnet of the boat. We snorkelled a couple of times and saw fat orange star fishes, unpuffed puffer fishes, and a graceful turtle. The fresh fish was exceptionally yummy, and we ate sushi and sashimi a lot back on the mainland. * It was so different compared to the other countries that I have visited in South America. First and foremost, the completely inpenetrable Portugese provided a barrier between us a total experience of local life, and it didn’t really sound that nice either ... it seemed that no one felt the need to learn Spanish. When we met a couple from Rio, the man offered that Brazil is the King of South America, but was promptly shut up by his friend for involving us in South American politics. Otherwise, the food is more fishy, the cachaca liquor is stronger and they seem to work harder (both at their bodies and at their jobs). * I can’t believe I was going to go to South America and not go to Rio. It has definitely been one of the highlights of my trip... but then again my whole trip needs to be highlighted, underlined, in bold and capital letters as a rather special section of my life.

Big Water

Dad and I met in the lobby of our rather cool hotel in San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Situated in the bohemian, arty district, there was a film school one block over and colourful, imposing graffiti on all available walls. One night, on the way home from dinner, we even came across a theatrical performance by a bored dame leaning on her balcony clutching her fan, and her adversary on the street below. It looked like they were getting good tips from passers-by!

We visited a small modern art gallery in La Boca on the day that we went to visit El Caminito – the set of colourful streets reminiscent of Camden town. Whilst we had a coffee, an old guy sang along to two guitarists and the tapping of a Tango couples shoes. They carried on tirelessly for ages, presumably aided by the copious amounts of mate they were drinking.

The amount of wildlife that Dad and I have seen has been amazing! It all started when we went on a bike ride around the park in Buenos Aires. It was National Flag Day and nice and sunny, so the rest of the city accompanied us. We saw parakeets nesting and cracking seeds in the trees above us, and wild dogs running around the paths.

Our second destination was Ibera, a swampy marshland in the north of Argentina. We stayed on a ranch for two days and went on a boat ride out into the local lake. We saw Caimans, Capybaras and thousands of different bird species. It was really impressive that such biodiversity can exist on these little islands in such close proximity – there were caimans sleeping on other caimans, and birds having a rest on the backs of Capybaras! From the ranch we also rode out around the Pampas on horses to check up on the 400 cows and lambs roaming about the estancia. Not to mention that in our lovely host’s back yard we also found monkeys living in his copse, glow worms and yet more Capybara.

A few bits of steak and some red wine later, we left for the tropical heat of Puerto Iguazu and to take our pool side seats in the hotel. We visited Iguazu falls on three consecutive days, first to the Argentinean side and on the last day to the Brazilian side. All spectacular! On the Argentinean side you can stand on the board walk and stare down into the spray-filled abyss, wondering about the non-stop pummeling of the rocks below and the hypnotic journey of the water from precipice to river. We hadn’t realized how far the falls stretched, around a mile of individual waterfalls, some completely engulfing and roaring, others a trickle in comparison and dotted with shrubs and grasses still managing to cling on.

We were able to walk around the reserve and see the falls from many different angles, this included a quick cool off in an Iguazu shower and a long trek that led to a secret fall and pool deeper in the jungle. Whilst I was a little disappointed not to see any Jaguars, we saw more monkeys(!), an agouti, what Dad thinks was a Tapir, wild Guinea pigs and the stars of the show – the resident Coatis stealing pick nicks, frightening children, and demolishing rubbish bins (all of which we can bear witness to). The butterfly population is simply stunning. On the Brazilian side we were treated to a more panoramic view of the falls, and the size of the river Iguazu, itself. I feel very lucky to have seen one of the natural wonders of the world, and very, very small in comparison.

Rama Rama Hare Hare

Breakfast is every morning at 8 30. We then work from 9 to 11 30, when we take a break, before continuing our activity until lunchtime: 1 30. After lunch, we are free to do as we please until yoga at 4 30, our snack at 6 and dinner at 8. This is my daily routine at the Hare Krishna ashram where I’m staying for two weeks – one more to go. The devotees actually start their day at 5 with chanting and meditation, but us voluntarios prefer to stay in bed where it’s warm and comfy. The monks and mothers that live at the farm are all friendly, caring and surprisingly young people, some of whom led very world-wind lives before they arrived here. I’m working on the organic farm. We change our tasks every day, for example I have helped to build a manure house (not a house for manure but a house made out of manure!), weeding, hoeing (I never knew how much the land in Argentina needed to be hoed! One day, I hoepe we will have hoed enough…), chopping and washing up. It’s all pretty hard work, actually, but it does keep us warm. As we are only eating vegan meals, there is a lot of grating, peeling and mashing to be done, and they make so much food. Every meal preparation feels like we’re about to feed five thousand people. Eating is considered a spiritual meditation and act of thanks to Krishna, so the meals are always arranged beautifully and no food is ever wasted. It’s a very efficient farm, whatever is left over is fed to the various animals that live along side us. Only two of the six dogs that live here were invited – the others just turned up – and neither of the two chickens nor the two cockerels. The dogs are all very sweet and a constant source of entertainment/warmth, the cockerels on the other hand have no concept of time and crow at midnight, or at three in the afternoon. Yoga classes are everyday and often quite hard work, but again they warm us up. After not really feeling like I can roll out a yoga mat in a ten-bed hostal dorm room for the past three months, I’m embarrassingly unflexible, but little and often every day is the best way to improve, they say! The mediation classes are really nice, sometimes the mother taking the class will sing or play an instrument, and sometimes we just lie in quiet. I’m loving this detox. No wine, meat or dairy products for two weeks is doing me good! The farm is in the Argentinian country side just outside of Buenos Aires. It’s as flat as a pancake in every direction, apart from the rows and rows of trees around each field. It’s a peaceful and tranquil place- you can see all the stars and every corner of the sky- and it's also horse country! I walked past a field of about thirty horses yesterday, and we forever see gauchos riding their steeds over to their friends’ house if they need to have a word about a dog. I originally planned to stay here for three weeks, but on account of the blistering cold I’m leaving early. Back to BA, back to pastries and coffee!

Back in Grey

I arrived in BA at half five in the morning. We drove along misty streets with bars still glowing on every corner, and Portenos casually having a beer, still deciding which club they should grace. It’s true that BA is a twenty four hour city! My classes start at nine and finish at twelve forty. Then, as in Quito, I can roam around the city in the afternoon. Unfortunately, it’s now winter here and rains quite a lot. On the other hand it’s pretty warm. This weather is pretty deceptive and I bought myself a lovely new winter coat which is slowly but surely cooking me!

As you would expect from a city which never sleeps, the nights out are lots of fun. The best club we’ve danced at is called ReggaeTron and has breakdancing competitions all evening. I like pretending I look like I’m part of the scene, but my Converse don’t really fit in with all the Nikes…otherwise the barrio Palermo is home to pretty bars playing music from Amelie Poulain, and there are restaurants literally everywhere selling literally the best steaks a girl can get.

The street style is awesome in BA. The Portenas are known for their confidence and fierce attitude (especially if they’re working in a shop when it seems most essential), and they all channel a rock chick look. Studded leather jackets, black wedge heels, long I-woke-up-with-perfectly-tangled locks and ‘save your time for someone who cares’ expressions. These people mostly live in the area that I’m living in- and where the school is, too. La Recoleta is the posh barrio where Americans and French have infiltrated, lined with gold and leopard print shops and tiny, little dogs. So. Many. Dogs. The dog walkers here are the highlight of my walk to school. I think I’ve worked out that they need at least ten pooches to make it worth the trip, and the more diverse the size, colour and age of the dogs the more impeccably they behave. If Poppy and Echo would join, there would be utter chaos! I’ve been really enjoying visiting the art galleries of Buenos Aires. At the MALBA, a little gallery of modern art, we saw some particularly disturbing exhibitions reminicent of Charlie Brooker’s Black Mirror series. The Recoleta Cementario is almost like a sculpture exhibition, each grave is different and personal and deeply devotional. You can walk around for hours peering in through the windows of the mausoleums and deciding which of the many angels you would like to protect you one day. The botanical gardens have really pretty lilies and grecian statues, and on the first sunny day of my visit we could sit on a bench and eat some delicious ice cream. There are lots of Italian immigrants in BA, explaining the abundance of ice cream, coffee, pizza and pasta joints. One of my Italian flat mates at the residence works for an ice cream company and she visits the various factories to taste all of the flavours!

During my first week I stayed with a lovely grandmother to one, and BFF to all. She called me hermosa, amor, chickitika…and cooked wonderful mediterranean food. She hosted up to three students at any one time, and wanted to do all she could for each one. I felt very bad in that I hardly understood a word of her many rambling stories becuase she spoke so fast! She liked to Tango, and to get her nails and hair done every two weeks. Thank you, Alicia, for a wonderful stay!! And as my week is almost up, thank you to Buenos Aires for a lovely visit. I am definitely falling in love with this city! It reminds me of London with all the different areas, all of which have their own personality. There’s too little time to dance all the dances, try all la comida and see all the museums! BA was even named literary capital one year, I think. One of my favourite things to do is to find a cafe with waitors in bow ties and sit down with a cafe solo and my book, note book, or pile of postcards!

A word about my Spanish – it’s definitely improving, I’m currently working on the subjuctive, but I’m still met with confused expressions when I try and top up my phone or tell the taxi driver where I want to go. The classes are fun and the teachers are all dedicated. No problems waking up at seven forty five to get here!

Cold and Cool Quito

Polluted, busy, casi expensive, standing at an altitude of 2,800 metres (9,200 ft)… I absolutely love Quito! My school is in a pretty, colonial building on a quiet street with a ‘gourmet’ café just down the road. I have lessons from 8 30 to 1 Monday to Friday, and I have the afternoon free with the city as my playground. There are loads of museums, art galleries, coffee shops for people watching, parks and narrow streets with lime green, sunflower yellow and ruby red houses.

Being Lazy in Lima

So we’re now hiding out in Mierflores, Lima. It’s not really the ‘grungy’ side, as Anna from New Zealand suggested, as there’s a big café culture and a city beach just down the road…

It’s mid-twenties at midday (sorry to hear about the storms at home!), and the sea is providing pretty swell surf for Sophia to catch on her board. We decided to get to Lima early to chill out before Sophia goes home. We’re glad we did, it’s a good opportunity to detox from party-town Cusco what with all the healthy frozen yoghurt bars and enormous parks to laze in that we’ve found.

Yesterday, we actually ventured into the city to pick up some final souvenirs, and see the main square, but we couldn’t help but feel we wanted to make the most of the holiday aspect, as opposed to the cultural aspect, of this city. So, guiltily, we caught a taxi back and decided what to do next….um…beach??

At our lovely sociable hostel, they organized a Peruvian five course meal for us (yes- five!). Each round was basically a little morsel of potato carved into a different shape, and drowned in cream cheese sauce. Really good! Perhaps a little recklessly after a dodgy tummy, I tried the Ceviche (raw sea food, seasoned with lime) and the beef kebabs, hot off the barbie. I’m feeling fine today, happily, and it was interesting to see the contrast in the food to that of the highlands, such as tough Alpaca steaks and dry quinoa. So, I’m now off to recline in the palm-tree-park with a pot of Mango sorbet and my book before I begin school again in Quito, Ecuador. Even if Spanish isn’t my language, I think I’d be okay as a Frenchman…!