Tuesday 17 April 2012

Machu Picchu


So I've just returned from my Inca Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu (pronounced pik-chew, like picture), the ancient city of the Inca and a select few of the 10 million race. It was a challenging route and included ridiculously early mornings, but the journey made our arrival to the citadel all the more impressive. A few buildings have been restored, but for the most part the structures are so strong and still standing it's easy to transport yourself back to the busy town. The tiered levels provided them with farm land for Quinoa, and there were other areas for a cemetary, sacrificial stone, courtyard, university and temple. Llamas were walking around the site, and pretty orchids and grey lizards made the place their home. But why did they choose to perch on this mountain? How long must it have taken them to bring the heavy stones from 11km away? There's so many unanswered questions about their life and culture, but our guide, Henry, believes that the last of the Incan Empire is living on in the jungle. If we ever find them (or the lost city of gold), maybe we'll one day find out...


We were a group of 8 people- three guys just graduated and very sporty, a couple who had quit their jobs and sold their homes to travel and do as many adventure sports as possible, and another young couple from Canada who loved the great outdoors. So they were quite a fit bunch, and on the treks I had to push myself to keep up with them following my month and a half of tame city strolls. We got on really well and found out so much about the history of Peru. Henry lived and breathed the culture. He had a head in his house that had been unearthed by a friend (it has a really tall skull because the children wore tight bands around their foreheads in order to make it grow up. This was a status symbol, much like, I guess, the bowler hats now) because it's thought that this head will watch over your house and prevent burglaries. It still has hair. The hair is still growing.


On the first day we mountain biked down a valley into the Cloud Forest. The clouds were hanging motionless in the air, and the road was really quiet. It was almost eerie until it started raining torrents and we had to force our eyes to stay open to see the road. At the bottom we visited our first ruins (ruined by nature, not the Spanish) - a sacred place where they would make sacrifices to Inti, the Sun God. There's little evidence to support the idea that they killed people, but enough skeletons to confirm that Llamas were the main victim. Llamas were bred for meat, fur, manure and to be sacred. Essential creatures!


On the second day we woke up very early and had insect repellent showers before hiking for a couple of hours up hill. It's lucky we started so early because as soon as the sun had risen for a few hours we were really hot! The first stop was to visit a monkey, who promptly grabbed Sophia's water bottle that I borrowed and took a swig! I've drank from it since, following some scrupulous cleaning and I seem to be okay (fingers crossed). He was so cute. We continued up to a hut where we tried on some traditional outfits, and tasted some fruits from the forest. All our tours have been so educational. To be a tour guide in Peru, you must go to university for five years to qualify. From the mirrador at the top, we started walking down the steep steps (much harder than going up!) to find a landslip blocking the road. Following the rainy season of Jan, Feb, March they are quite common. We had to walk an extra hour to our lodge. This was no problem, however, because upon arriving we could see it was totally worth the effort. Bowls of sweet bananas and creamy avocados were dotted around the wooden lodge. Our rooms were open air, such that there were no closed walls. We slept to the sound of the rushing river, and cowered in our nets from the pesky mosquitos. But before we could enjoy sleeping, we went zip wiring! Maximum line was 150m above a valley - terrifying but exhilarating!

On the third day we faced a hard walk up hill. It was really steep and a little higher which meant it was harder to breathe. Not to mention the guy holding us up by herding his lazy cows up this narrow path. At the top we saw another site and had a great view of Machu Picchu, our goal! We had a delicious lunch, followed by a nap in the shade and I saw a bottle green Humming Bird darting about. Again, the downhill made our legs shake but we arrived on time to our next hostal and our final meal together - Piscosours included!

On our final day we woke at 5am and took the bus up with the many other tourists to Machu Picchu. We had a long guide around the old buildings, after we raced to get our cheesy trophy photos before the throngs in the background were spoiling the post card shot. We said goodbye to our guide and climbed Wayna Picchu. After three long days, this was the hardest part. Slippery rocks and narrow staircases...I was a little scared. The view from above was great, though. And my Pig made it!

We decided not to go to the hot springs before our train back, because we had gone on the second day instead to rejuvinate ourselves for the rest of the trip. It was delicious. 28 Degrees Celcius, we got there at dusk and watched the outline of the mountains blend into the sky as the stars come out. If it wasn't for the walk in the dark back across the fresh landslide (literally fallen that morning) then I would have been completely relaxed!

I really enjoyed myself, and promptly sent Dad a gushing email about how it was 'so inspiring, dude'. It's clear why Machu Picchu is one of the beacons of South America. 2000 people visit it every day, 400 people clime Wayna Picchu, and this happens for 11months of the year! I've been there, done it, and I think I may have to get the T shirt!


I wish you could have all been with me, lots of Love xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
(I will add photos a later!)

Thursday 5 April 2012

La Paz



La Paz is the highest populated city in the world! It’s really polluted, built on a mountain and has a local witches market where you can buy Alpaca skeletons and dried frogs. I would love to bring one home (they have put sequins where the eyes are, and coated them in glitter spray!) but I don’t think I could get it through US customs…

Our favorite herbal concoction is the Coca Mate tea which tastes as though it has some Fennel, Green tea and Mint in. The coca leaves reduce altitude sickness, weariness, cold and pain. The Inca love goddess is depicted holding them aloof, and they used to be used in trading (weird having a currency you can actually eat). All the locals chew them (especially bus drivers), and we’ve been getting better and better at spotting those telling hamster cheeks! The British Queen was even given them when she visited South America.

Mate is the Argentinean drink which adds the Fennel flavor to the tea. The locals drink it from clay pots, using straws that have filters at the bottom of them (definitely bringing one for Sarah for drinking loose leaf Green tea! Such a clever idea! ). They carry them around EVERYWHERE, along with thermal flasks of hot water to keep it topped up. Mate had to be banned from public busses, because people would not stop drinking the brew for more than a minute to get their change out!


Yesterday was our first day in La Paz, but Sophia and I needed a day of recovery so didn’t explore much further than the local Moroccan restaurant for our first hummus in a whole month!

We were very sad to leave Sucre, it was a pretty, chilled town and we made lots of friends who accompanied us to the local Karaoke bar, and who we could feed the local PiscoSour to for the first time (reminiscent, I imagine, of watching babies drink something fizzy!).


We will be in La Paz for the next two days...lots of fun things planned!