Big Water

Dad and I met in the lobby of our rather cool hotel in San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Situated in the bohemian, arty district, there was a film school one block over and colourful, imposing graffiti on all available walls. One night, on the way home from dinner, we even came across a theatrical performance by a bored dame leaning on her balcony clutching her fan, and her adversary on the street below. It looked like they were getting good tips from passers-by!

We visited a small modern art gallery in La Boca on the day that we went to visit El Caminito – the set of colourful streets reminiscent of Camden town. Whilst we had a coffee, an old guy sang along to two guitarists and the tapping of a Tango couples shoes. They carried on tirelessly for ages, presumably aided by the copious amounts of mate they were drinking.

The amount of wildlife that Dad and I have seen has been amazing! It all started when we went on a bike ride around the park in Buenos Aires. It was National Flag Day and nice and sunny, so the rest of the city accompanied us. We saw parakeets nesting and cracking seeds in the trees above us, and wild dogs running around the paths.

Our second destination was Ibera, a swampy marshland in the north of Argentina. We stayed on a ranch for two days and went on a boat ride out into the local lake. We saw Caimans, Capybaras and thousands of different bird species. It was really impressive that such biodiversity can exist on these little islands in such close proximity – there were caimans sleeping on other caimans, and birds having a rest on the backs of Capybaras! From the ranch we also rode out around the Pampas on horses to check up on the 400 cows and lambs roaming about the estancia. Not to mention that in our lovely host’s back yard we also found monkeys living in his copse, glow worms and yet more Capybara.

A few bits of steak and some red wine later, we left for the tropical heat of Puerto Iguazu and to take our pool side seats in the hotel. We visited Iguazu falls on three consecutive days, first to the Argentinean side and on the last day to the Brazilian side. All spectacular! On the Argentinean side you can stand on the board walk and stare down into the spray-filled abyss, wondering about the non-stop pummeling of the rocks below and the hypnotic journey of the water from precipice to river. We hadn’t realized how far the falls stretched, around a mile of individual waterfalls, some completely engulfing and roaring, others a trickle in comparison and dotted with shrubs and grasses still managing to cling on.

We were able to walk around the reserve and see the falls from many different angles, this included a quick cool off in an Iguazu shower and a long trek that led to a secret fall and pool deeper in the jungle. Whilst I was a little disappointed not to see any Jaguars, we saw more monkeys(!), an agouti, what Dad thinks was a Tapir, wild Guinea pigs and the stars of the show – the resident Coatis stealing pick nicks, frightening children, and demolishing rubbish bins (all of which we can bear witness to). The butterfly population is simply stunning. On the Brazilian side we were treated to a more panoramic view of the falls, and the size of the river Iguazu, itself. I feel very lucky to have seen one of the natural wonders of the world, and very, very small in comparison.

Rama Rama Hare Hare

Breakfast is every morning at 8 30. We then work from 9 to 11 30, when we take a break, before continuing our activity until lunchtime: 1 30. After lunch, we are free to do as we please until yoga at 4 30, our snack at 6 and dinner at 8. This is my daily routine at the Hare Krishna ashram where I’m staying for two weeks – one more to go. The devotees actually start their day at 5 with chanting and meditation, but us voluntarios prefer to stay in bed where it’s warm and comfy. The monks and mothers that live at the farm are all friendly, caring and surprisingly young people, some of whom led very world-wind lives before they arrived here. I’m working on the organic farm. We change our tasks every day, for example I have helped to build a manure house (not a house for manure but a house made out of manure!), weeding, hoeing (I never knew how much the land in Argentina needed to be hoed! One day, I hoepe we will have hoed enough…), chopping and washing up. It’s all pretty hard work, actually, but it does keep us warm. As we are only eating vegan meals, there is a lot of grating, peeling and mashing to be done, and they make so much food. Every meal preparation feels like we’re about to feed five thousand people. Eating is considered a spiritual meditation and act of thanks to Krishna, so the meals are always arranged beautifully and no food is ever wasted. It’s a very efficient farm, whatever is left over is fed to the various animals that live along side us. Only two of the six dogs that live here were invited – the others just turned up – and neither of the two chickens nor the two cockerels. The dogs are all very sweet and a constant source of entertainment/warmth, the cockerels on the other hand have no concept of time and crow at midnight, or at three in the afternoon. Yoga classes are everyday and often quite hard work, but again they warm us up. After not really feeling like I can roll out a yoga mat in a ten-bed hostal dorm room for the past three months, I’m embarrassingly unflexible, but little and often every day is the best way to improve, they say! The mediation classes are really nice, sometimes the mother taking the class will sing or play an instrument, and sometimes we just lie in quiet. I’m loving this detox. No wine, meat or dairy products for two weeks is doing me good! The farm is in the Argentinian country side just outside of Buenos Aires. It’s as flat as a pancake in every direction, apart from the rows and rows of trees around each field. It’s a peaceful and tranquil place- you can see all the stars and every corner of the sky- and it's also horse country! I walked past a field of about thirty horses yesterday, and we forever see gauchos riding their steeds over to their friends’ house if they need to have a word about a dog. I originally planned to stay here for three weeks, but on account of the blistering cold I’m leaving early. Back to BA, back to pastries and coffee!